To sew a zipper, sew your seam closed, baste the zipper opening shut, press the seam open, then stitch the zipper under the seam with a zipper foot. This is the centered zipper method. It is the easiest one for beginners, and it works on skirts, dresses, bags and jackets.
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Why zippers scare people
I avoided sewing a zipper for ages. It looked like a trick only experienced sewists knew. Then I tried a centered zipper on a simple skirt and saw the truth: it is just basting, pressing and straight lines. The scary part is skipping steps.
What you need
- A zipper that fits your pattern
- A zipper foot
- Pins or clips
- A seam ripper
- An iron
- Matching thread
Do you need a zipper foot to sew a zipper? Yes. A regular foot rides up on the teeth, tilts, and skips stitches. To check the zipper length, measure a closed zipper from the top stop to the bottom stop. Most patterns also list the length you need.
How to sew a zipper, step by step
- Sew the seam normally down to the zipper opening, and backstitch. Then switch to your longest stitch, about 4.0 to 5.0, and baste the opening closed. Skip the backstitch on the basting.
- Press the seam open.
- Lay the zipper face down on the seam allowance, with the teeth centered over the seam. Pin, clip or baste it in place.
- Attach your zipper foot. Turn the fabric to the right side and mark a line 1/4 inch from the seam on each side.
- Start at the top and stitch down one side. Pivot at the bottom with the needle down, stitch across, pivot again and stitch up the other side. Stay clear of the metal stop at the bottom.
- Backstitch a few times across the bottom for strength.
- Unpick the basting with a seam ripper, then press.
When you reach the zipper pull, stop with the needle down, lift the foot and slide the pull out of the way. I do this every time.
How to sew a zipper in different projects
- Skirt: Use the same method at the back or side seam. Set the top of the zipper so the waistband or facing can cover it.
- Dress: Same steps. Then fold the facing over the zipper and hand sew it down, tucking the zipper ends inside.
- Jacket or hoodie: These use separating zippers. Sew each side to its own front edge. Pin both sides first so the hems match.
- Bag or pocket: Stitch straight along the teeth with a zipper foot, keeping an even distance.
- By hand: Use a small backstitch about 1/4 inch from the seam. It is slower, but it is easy to control.
An invisible zipper is a different method and needs a special foot.
Mistakes I would warn you about
- Skipping the basting. It keeps the zipper aligned. Never skip it.
- Sewing over the stop. You can break a needle. Pin across just below the stop as a guide.
- Guessing the length. Measure first, then buy.
- Crooked topstitching. Mark your stitching lines before you sew.
FAQ
What is a centered zipper?
It is a zipper set under a closed seam, so the teeth sit in the middle with a line of stitching on each side.
How do you measure a zipper?
Close it, then measure from the top stop to the bottom stop. Ignore the tape at both ends.
Can I sew a zipper by hand?
Yes. Use a backstitch and keep your stitches small and even.
Why does my zipper pucker?
Usually the zipper was not basted flat, or the fabric stretched as you sewed. Baste it and sew slowly.
About the Author: Sara McLean is the creator of AppliquéFits.com and a textile designer who shares practical appliqué, sewing, and fabric-design ideas.