A reverse applique sweatshirt is a plain sweatshirt with fabric stitched behind it, then the top layer cut away so the fabric shows through. You need a sweatshirt, a fabric scrap, a marker, and a machine or a needle. A simple design takes an afternoon.
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Why I put it off
I avoided my first reverse applique sweatshirt for longer than I like to admit. Cutting into a sweatshirt I actually liked felt like a bad idea. Then I learned the secret: the scary cut is the easy part. The prep is what decides whether it looks good.
Sweatshirt knit does not fray like woven cotton, so the cut edge just curls softly after a wash. That is why I tell every beginner to start here.
What you need
- A washed, dried crewneck or hoodie
- A cotton scrap, about 1 inch bigger than your design on every side, also prewashed
- Chalk or a washable marker
- A glue stick and pins
- Small, sharp scissors
- Thread you like, because it shows on top
Stabilizer is optional on a firm sweatshirt with a simple shape. I add it when the fabric is stretchy or the design is detailed. A reverse applique hoodie works the same way. Keep the design above the pocket and away from the zipper.
How I make one
- Draw a chunky shape on paper. Hearts, initials and swirls work well. Thin points are miserable to cut later.
- Trace it onto the sweatshirt front with chalk, centered under the neckline.
- Push safety pins through the front layer only at the top, bottom and sides. Turn the sweatshirt inside out.
- Lay your fabric inside with its pretty side facing the sweatshirt. Dab on glue stick, flip it right side out, and pin through the front and the fabric only.
- Stitch slowly along the line. Backstitch at both ends, and use needle-down on curves if your machine has it.
- Pinch up the sweatshirt inside the shape, snip a tiny hole, then cut just inside the stitching. Lift the sweatshirt away from the fabric as you go.
- Flip it inside out and trim the extra fabric to about 1/4 inch from the stitching. Then wash it.
Hand or machine?
I use a regular sewing machine most of the time because it is quick. Hand stitching with embroidery thread is slower, but it gives a handmade look and you can do it on the couch. Reverse embroidery on an embroidery machine gives very even borders, but the setup takes time, so I save it for matching sets. Use whatever you already own.
Mistakes I would warn you about
- Pinning through the back. You will stitch the sweatshirt shut. Pin the front layer only.
- Cutting too close. Leave a hair of space so the stitches hold.
- Using a tiny patch. Gaps show at the edges. Go a full inch bigger.
- Skipping the prewash. Mixed fabrics shrink differently and pucker.
My best advice is to practice on a hem first. Two minutes of cutting on a spare piece teaches you how your scissors behave.
Ideas to start with
Try a heart, an initial, a swirl or a bow. A MAMA sweatshirt makes a lovely gift. For Halloween, a simple ghost is hard to beat. Game day fans can use team colors behind the sweatshirt. Pick one big shape instead of a busy scene. It stitches faster and looks sharper.
Final thoughts
The first cut still makes my stomach flip a little. Then the fabric peeks through, and it is worth it. Grab a thrifted sweatshirt, a scrap you love, and an afternoon. Tell me which fabric you chose.
About the Author: Sara McLean is the creator of AppliquéFits.com and a textile designer who shares practical appliqué, sewing, and fabric-design ideas.